Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Downhill Slope

The days have been long but the months have been short. It is hard to believe that we only have about five months left of our Peace Corps service. Half of our villagers talk as if we are leaving tomorrow and the other half insist that we have become so Saramaccan that we cannot possible go back and live in America. Though I appreciate the integration compliment, let me assure everyone back home that there is no doubt that we will be returning to the states this summer.  ;)

Like much of our time in this extreme, cultural challenge, emotions are high. One moment volunteers in my training group are exhausted from almost 2 years of washing clothes in the river and just want to go home now. The next they are close to tears at the thought of not waking up next to neighbors they have come to love. My heart is also being pulled in two directions.

What I WILL miss about my life in Suriname:
·         Our neighbor girl, Lefurny. I don’t know how I’m going to be able to leave her. L
·         Simplicity.
·         The richness of spreading information to people who have not heard it before.
·         Being able to wear flip flops and tank tops every day.
·         Having it literally not matter what I wear because the person next to me is wearing a lady’s see through nightie as a daytime outfit.
·         The creek by my house.
·         Green everywhere.
·         The amazing and strong women here. If I start to think about all of them and the work we have done together, I will be a blubbering mess.
·         Being so close to nature.
·         My porch!
·         Getting to hang out with my hubby so much!
·         Learning firsthand about the realities and challenges of development work.
·         Being able to learn new things about Saramaccan culture in my everyday life.
·         Not having to constantly rush from one thing to the next.
·         Not having to pay rent, water, electricity, and phone bills. Eek!
      My fellow Peace Corps Volunteer friends. They are the only ones who truly understand what I've experienced here.

What I WON’T miss about my life in Suriname:
·         Putting on a headlamp and grabbing an umbrella before crawling out of my 3 foot tall back door into the pouring rain and pitch blackness of 2am to walk out to my latrine and pee in my pee pot.
·         Vegetable, meat and fruit deficiencies. I will be doing a joyful dance every time I set foot in an American grocery store from here on out.
·         Sweating all the time.
·         Mosquitoes, biting flies, and creepy insects.
·         Walking in dirt and/or mud all the time.
·         Lack of privacy (do your neighbors know exactly what time you go to bed, when you wash, if you brushed your teeth, how many times you peed, etc. because all those things are done outside of your house and your neighbor is always outside, too?)
·         Being asked invasive and creepy questions by men I don’t know on a daily basis.
·         Being the only young married American couple in the freakin’ country.
·         Washing my clothes in the river or creek. I CANNOT believe I ever complained about having to push a button on a washing machine. Ridiculous.
·         Very defined gender roles.
·         Crowded, stifling hot public transportation. I day dream about driving alone in my own car going directly to wherever I want with a cool breeze blowing while I sing my heart out to the radio because no one’s listening. Literally daydream.

Like all things in life, this experience has neither been completely positive or completely negative. With the good comes the bad. It is just up to the individual person to decide which good things she is willing to sacrifice and which bad things she can put up with. Many people have asked me if, knowing all that I know now, would I still have joined the Peace Corps? Yes.  Peace Corps is not a perfect organization, by far. However, it offers a valuable, unique perspective that, I think, is extremely difficult to find anywhere else. International organizations are challenging. It is impossible to make one mold and expect it to prosper in various cultures. International development is hard. Period. The Protestant work ethic is an American value. Demanding efficiency is an American norm. “Beggars can’t be choosers” is an American saying. In order to be effective in a country outside of the U.S., development workers cannot bring an American mindset on the plane. High expectations can be good. However, expecting someone to reach “Z” when they are starting at “A” is not realistic. Progress is progress. If that person who starts at “A” reaches “F”, then that is an accomplishment. Although many western minds tend to disagree, success does not only come in huge numbers or impressive statistics.

Case in point: For the last couple of weeks I have been working with the 5-year-old who lives next door to me. After she gets home from Kindergarten, we sit on my porch and I make up activities for her, such as tracing shapes, coloring, cutting and gluing. My sister (a 3rd grade teacher in America) explained that these skills are important for young children to learn because they improve their fine motor skills, which will later set them up to write well for the rest of their lives. Is this time and effort going to show up as large numbers on my official Peace Corps trimester report? No. Is it changing the world on a grand scale? No. But I hope and pray that it will change her world. That it will encourage her to do well in school because without an education her future is dim.

I guess my point with all this is to say do not judge people until you have walked in their shoes. Development work is slow. Don’t judge development workers. Some people complain about how difficult it is for certain demographics to get ahead in America. I agree. We should not stop working to change this. Just know that in some countries, it is difficult for ANYONE to get ahead. There are smart, hardworking people who are never given any opportunity to improve their status. Don’t judge countries that just cannot seem to get it together. If you were born and raised there, would you be able to get it together? Easy to say “yes”…until you have actually experienced that life (and for longer than a tourist).

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Hygiene!

Your favorite blogger is now 27 years old. What did I do for my birthday you ask? I continued with a series of hygiene trainings, of course! The life of a Peace Corps volunteer. :) More on my birthday celebrations later...

A while back the U.S. military came to Suriname to provide cost free medical procedures and construction projects. They brought hundreds of toiletry packets that they gave to Peace Corps that included a hand towel, wash cloth, tooth brush, tooth paste, comb, brush, band-aids, etc. I requested some for our village. Instead of simply giving handouts, I thought this was a great opportunity to hold a training. As a health volunteer I have done a lot with HIV/AIDS but not a lot with hygiene and sanitation (at least, not officially). I showed the packs to my polic clinic nurse Lenda and asked what she thought. She currently has two nursing interns doing their field work here. Part of their requirements is to hold a community training. Perfect! Lenda and I met with the student to go over the information that should be covered. I also provided visual aides and activity ideas. Lenda thought the demographic who would benefit the most from a hygiene training was pregnant women and mothers with babies. She invited women from my village and the two other villages that our poli clinic covers. Thirty-one women showed up. Two-thirds of them had to travel by boat to attend. It was very successful!
A young mother, Ornella, washing her hands at a Durotank at the end of the training
A young mother and Lenda showing everyone what was inside the hygiene packets provided by the U.S. military
Lenda also wanted to go into the schools with the hygiene lesson. The first lesson given to mothers was done in Saramaccan and Sranan Tongo, mixed. In the schools, the nurses must speak Dutch. We evaluated what went well and what did not go well with the first lesson and came up with another lesson plan, targeted towards youth. This second training went even smoother. The nursing student did a wonderful job and I look forward to her future work. Lenda is very strict about anything we do here in my village (healthwise) we must do in the other villages that the poli clinic is responsible for. So, next week we will be traveling to a nearby village to hold the same hygiene lesson in their school.
"Personal Hygiene: What is personal hygiene?" (in Dutch)
Discussing when it is necessary to wash one's hands with soap
Click here to see more pictures.

Thursday, February 2, 2012

Christmas Cleaning!

A "good Saramaccan woman" washes her house before New Years Day every year. It is just like the American spring cleaning tradition. Well, our hut was getting pretty gross, so Ryan and I pulled EVERYTHING out of the front room and scrubbed down the walls and floor. Talk about a dirty job. I am glad we did it, though. We organized and got rid of a lot of stuff. Less work to do in 5 months when we move back to the states!

Of course, Lefurny wanted to help. Here she is scrubbing down a shelf.

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Christmas in a Nutshell

The week before Christmas: All of the school kids put on a Christmas pageant. They sang songs in Sranan Tongo, Saramaccan, Dutch and English. Talk about multiple languages! It was really fun to go.

A couple days before Christmas: The women cleaned up the yard around the church and asked Ryan and I if we would help put up their Christmas tree. I am sure some missionary gave them one back in the 70s. I had never put one together like that before- branch by branch!

Random fact: I helped put up and decorate no fewer than 5 Christmas trees this year. Personal record.
Women cleaning
Ryan and Tante Fe working on the tree
Christmas Eve: We went to church twice. Yep, twice. Once in the evening around 7ish, then back again at 11:30ish. Tradition dictates that everyone wear white (if you have it).

All the kids received a lit candle to walk back to their homes in the dark.
 In between church, Ryan and I exchanged gifts. We decided to set a 15 SRD limit (less than 5 USD) to buy each other a gift at the local convenience store. We already had Christmas and presents with our families while we were home, so no need to feel sorry for us. We just thought it would be fun to have something to open.
Unwrapping my gift
Christmas Day: Can you guess? Our village went to church again. Sidenote: Lefurny keeps up with the latest styles by importing all her dresses from Grandma Barb in America. I do my part with the matching hair beads!

Day after Christmas: 2nd Christmas. Yes, we went to church.

Click here to see more Christmas pictures. Spoiler: You have GOT to see this tree.

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Annual New Year's Meeting

Around the 1st of January, our village holds an annual meeting to discuss what is going on in the village and address any issues. Many people come out from the city. From my experience, it is the only time of the year that men wear traditional clothing and  out number the women at a village meeting. This year it was 5 hours long. We took some great pictures, though!
Meeting 
Traditional Saramaccan dress for men: badja koto and camisa (Giyer and Gio). Cross stitched by their wives, of course.
Tante Fe, Me, Basia Shirley and Jei

Me and Basia Simon- he is over 90 and so sweet! That is the official basia (village leader) uniform.
During this meeting, Ryan announced to our village that Peace Corps is phasing out of Suriname due to budgetary issues. Unfortunately, several small, expensive Peace Corps countries are being shut down, at least temporarily because Peace Corps worldwide was just not awarded enough money to keep all of their programs running in this year's budget. The group that arrived after ours (SUR 17s) is the last Peace Corps group for Suriname. When they finish their service in 2013 Peace Corps will pull out. This is an unfortunate and challenging addition to our Peace Corps experience. However, Ryan did an excellent job communicating this difficult and sensitive situation to our village, using the traditional Saramaccan meeting etiquette.

For more pictures, click here.

For pictures from actual New Years Day in our village (the New Years meeting was held a couple weeks into January this year), click here.

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Thank you Mrs. Tracy's class!

While we were home for the holidays, Ryan and I were able to visit Mrs. Tracy's class. In fact, we had the opportunity to talk about Peace Corps and our experience in Suriname during an assembly. It was great for us to finally meet Mrs. Tracy's current and past students in person after communicating via Skype and snail mail for the past two years from Suriname.
Today Ryan and I both received birthday cards from Mrs. Tracy's class! They must have been planning ahead because snail mail takes awhile to arrive and they came 7 days before my birthday. Thanks so much everyone! We really enjoyed reading all of your beautiful cards. This one even has some Saramaccan:
Pretty impressive!

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

The Amazon: Terrifying and Awesome

Every time I talk to my friend Jason, he always asks me if I have seen a poison arrow frog yet. Every time, I laugh and tell him no. Like any area around a settlement, the animals who once lived around my village, figured out to go deeper into the jungle where they won’t be disturbed by humans. Honestly, I did not think that I would see one of those frogs my entire tour. Well, Jason, I've seen a poison arrow frog! In fact, I have seen three in the past two days. Two black and lime green:

And one black and neon yellow:
 The Amerindians (American Indians) indigenous to this area used to rub the tips of their arrows in the poison from these frogs’ skin. Once it hits the bloodstream, I am told that it can be deadly. The yellow frog Ryan found next to our latrine…truth be told he peed on it. The two lime green ones we saw while camping at a nature reserve. About 12 of us went for a day and a half, to hike and look for animals. On our longest hike the group collectively saw four snakes. Yes, we are pretty sure they were all poisonous. I was able to get this awesome picture:
 My favorite part of the trip, though, was the monkeys! I saw so many monkeys! Four separate troops of at least three different species. Three of those four troops passed directly over my head! SO COOL. They seem so carefree, frolicking and free falling from tree to tree. We saw tiny ones, medium ones and bigger ones. I think one was a howler monkey. I saw one baby on a mother’s back. They are all so fast, plus very high up, plus covered by the thick trees, so very hard to capture with a camera, but I got lucky with the last troop:

 There were also pretty birds, creepy spiders, lots of army ants, a kokoni (large rodent- not sure what the English name is) and unreal flora. 

We saw a couple Morpho Butterflies. They are beautiful! I see them frequently when I go to the creek by my house to wash dishes and clothes. They do this drunk, kamikaze flying pattern that makes it impossible (for me) to take a picture. They are said to be a sign of good luck. Here is a picture I found online:
I had my first experience with fish biting me hard enough to hurt. No, not piranhas, don’t worry. We hiked for about 2 ½ hours to a fresh water pool and went swimming. The pond had aggressive minnow-like fish that kept biting everyone. Not enough to cause damage but, boy, did they catch me off guard every time.

I would be remiss if I did not mention that the company was awesome. We have some amazing and talented individuals here in Peace Corps Suriname.