One Year in Saramaaka

It is hard to believe, but we are coming up on one year since we first set foot in Suriname and it has been a wild ride! To Americans, a year seems like such a long time but to Saramaccans, it is fleeting. I must say that with the goal of integrating into a culture that is SO incredibly diverse from my own, including learning the language from absolute square one, one year is not a long time. In fact, this experience has only strengthened my belief that development workers must put in the time to truly understand a country, a culture, and a people long before they can try to “improve” anything.  There are so many things that Saramaccans do that I still do not understand why they do them but you know what? They have lived this way for generations- long before I showed up- and they have survived just fine. Yes, I have been trained in the things of the Western world and some of those things can be applied here to empower the people in order to improve their quality of life. However, in so many things I know nothing and am like an infant. It is amazing that as society “progresses”, people lose the most basic skills and knowledge, like how to just take care of yourself without all the modern conveniences.

Saramaccans left “civilized society” in this Dutch colony to escape slavery and created a life for themselves in the middle of the Amazon jungle- definitely one of the fiercest environments in the world. And they have continued to survive ever since. That is impressive. And then here I come, a college educated white girl who doesn’t know how to grow my own food, light a wood fire or kill snakes, rats, etc. and I am supposed to be educating them? Respect and relationships govern this community, not resumes and individualism. And not self-seeking relationships from heartless networking but sincere, intimate relationships with people you see every day and know well.

This experience has really opened my eyes to the reality of development work- what works and what doesn’t and what effects “charity” has on entire generations and communities. I have worked with numerous international charities/non-profits/development agencies from the pristine walls of offices in Beverly Hills and Santa Monica but diligent research and strategic meetings do not achieve the level of understanding that comes from working in the field. This is the most challenging undertaking that I have attempted thus far (and Machu Piccu was excruciating). Every day takes its toll physically, mentally, and emotionally but it has been and continues to be such an awe-inspiring experience. I have worked my way into a part of this community (worked HARD, mind you)- into its rich culture, complicated past and uncertain future. It is unlikely that I will have the opportunity to be in this unique position ever again.

Two weeks ago Ryan and I were riding in a bus from Paramaribo back to site with a driver that we know well. A couple Saramaccan men who did not know us got onto the bus and one of them asked the driver “ambe dee bakaa?” which means “who are these white people/outsiders?” With a chuckle (since he knew we understood the question), he replied, “they’re not outsiders/white people, they’re Saramaccan.” For not completing one fleeting year yet, I would say that is pretty damn good. ;)